Glossary of Fabric & Fashion Terms

T - Z

Taffeta - A lustrous, medium-weight, plain-weave fabric with a slight ribbed appearance in the filling (crosswise) direction made from silk, rayon or synthetics. For formal wear, taffeta is a favorite choice. It provides a crisp hand, with lots of body. Silk taffeta gives the ultimate rustle, but other fibers are also good choices.  It is a cloth supposed to have originated in Iran (Persia) and was called "taftah", meaning a fine silk fabric.  In the 16th century, it became a luxury for women's wear. It is made in plain colors, fancy prints, watered designs, and changeable effects. It is smooth with a sheen on its surface. The textures vary considerably. They have a crispness and stiffness. Taffeta in silk will not wear as long as other high quality silks, since weighting is given the fabric to make it stiff. If it is overweighted, the goods will split or crack.

Taffeta (Faille) - Made with a crosswise rib weave and has a distinct rib effect and is usually quite heavy and firm.

Taffeta (Paper) - Plain weave, very light in weight and treated to give a crisp, paper-like finish.

Taffeta (Pompadour) - Originally executed in silk and often has large floral designs in velvet or pile on a Taffeta ground. Occasionally stripes are used instead of flowers. Today it is made with manufactured fibers.

Taffeta (Shot) - Usually plain weave in one color in the warp and another color in the filling, which gives the fabric an iridescent look. This color changes as the fabric is moved in the light.  Shot taffeta is the silk version of chambray.

Taffeta (Tissue) - Plain weave, very light weight and transparent. 

Taffeta (Warp-print) - Usually a plain weave, the warp yarns are printed before the filling is inserted. The fabric has a very fuzzy design when design is distorted as fabric is woven.

Tagua Nut - Used as a substitute for plastic buttons, the Tagua nut is a sustainable commodity harvested by the indigenous people of the rainforest.

Tank Top - A short, sleeveless top with wide armholes.

Tankini - A two piece bathing suit with the upper portion resembling a tank top.

Tapered Legs - Pant legs that become progressively narrower toward the ankle.

Tea Length - A gown hemmed to end at the shin.

Tencel - A trademark of Courtaulds for a high-performance fiber used to make soft, beautifully draping rayon fabrics.  It is a strong, easy-care fabric made of cellulose extracted from wood pulp that is harvested from replenished tree farms. It's environmentally sensitive and washable.  This elegant eco-fiber is derived using a non-toxic process, which spins it into a buttery-soft machine washable textile, both luxurious and upscale.  Tencel is 100% biodegradable, durable, dyeable, and machine washable/dryable.  It is elegant and ultra-soft, offering an incredible drape and versatility.

Tension Control Weave - A type of decorative weave, characterized by a puckered effect which occurs because the tension in the warp yarns is intentionally varied before the filling yarns are placed in the fabric.

Terry - A woven fabric, usually cotton or maybe linen, with loop pile on one or both sides.  Pile, also jacquard and dobby combined with pile.  It has either all over loops on both sides of the fabric or patterned loops on both sides. It is formed with an extra warp yarn. Long wearing, easy to launder and requires no ironing. May be bleached, dyed, or printed. Better qualities have a close, firm, underweave, with very close loops. Terry is very absorbent, and the longer the loop, the greater the absorbency. When the pile is only on one side, it is called "Turkish toweling".  Commonly used in towels, beachwear, bathrobes, all kinds of sportswear, children's wear, slip covers, and draperies.

Terry Cloth - Type of cloth that has uncut loops on the pile. A typical uncut pile weave fabric. This fabric is formed by using two sets of warp yarns. One set of warp yarns is under very little tension; when the filling yarns are packed into place, these loose yarns are pushed backward along with the filling yarns, and loops are formed. Typical uses include towels, robes, and apparel.

Terry Velour - A pile weave cotton fabric with an uncut pile on one side and a cut pile on the reverse side. Terry velour is valued for its soft, luxurious hand. Typical uses include towels, robes, and apparel.

Thread Count - The number of yarns per square inch in a woven fabric (warp yarn x weft yarn per sq. inch). The higher the count the finer the fabric.

Ticking - A tightly woven, very durable fabric, usually made of cotton, and used for covering mattresses, box springs, pillows, and work clothes. The fabric can be made by using a plain, satin, or twill weave construction.

Ticking - Cotton twill that is very tightly woven with more warp than filling yarns. It is very sturdy and strong, smooth and lustrous. Usually has white and colored stripes, but some patterned (floral).  Tiking can be made water-repellent, germ resistant, and feather-proof.   Uses include pillow covers, mattress coverings, upholstering and some sportswear. "Bohemian ticking" has a plain weave, a very high texture, and is featherproof.  It has a lighter weight than regular ticking and is patterned with narrow colored striped on a white background or may have a chambray effect by using a white or unbleached warp with a blue or red filling.

Tie-Cinched Waist - The waist is pulled tight around the body with a tie.

Tri-acetate - A manufactured fiber, which, like acetate, is made by modifying cellulose. Tri-acetate is less absorbent and less sensitive to high temperatures than acetate. It can be hand or machine washed and tumble dried, with relatively good wrinkle recovery.

Tricot – A warp knit fabric of silk, rayon, or synthetics in which the fabric is formed by interlooping adjacent parallel yarns. The warp beam holds thousands of yards of yarns in a parallel arrangement, and these yarns are fed into the knitting area simultaneously. Sufficient yarns to produce the final fabric width and length are on the beam. Knit or warp knitted with vertical wales on surface and more or less crosswise ribs on the back.  It has a thin texture, made from very fine or single yarns. Glove silk is a double bar tricot (very run-resistant).  Used in underwear, sportswear, bathing suits, gloves.

Tricotine – A fabric of worsted, wool, rayon, or blends with synthetics.  It has a double twill rib on the face of the cloth with a very clear finish. It drapes well, and tailors easily and is medium in weight.  It has exceptional wearing qualities and is very much like cavalry twill, but finer.  It is in the same family as whipcords, coverts, and gabardines.

Trim - To cut off the ragged edges below the seam line to prevent the garment from being bulky and to give the seam a neat finish.

Tropical Worsteds - 100% worsted.  If it is just called tropical, it can be made up in any fiber or blends of wool and synthetics.  It has a plain and open weave.  The yarns are tightly twisted and woven to permit a free circulation of air. It is lightweight ad is ideal for summer and tropical wear. It has a clear finish and wears and tailors very well. 

Tulle – Made from Silk, nylon, or cotton in a weave of guaze, knotted, or leno and made on a lace machine.  Its name is derived name from Tulle, France and was first made by Machine in 1768. It has a hexagonal mesh and is stiff and difficult to launder. It is very cool, dressy, delicate and is a stately type of fabric when used for formal wear, and weddings. It is also used for ballet costumes and wedding veils.

Tunic Style - A simple slip-on garment made with or without sleeves and usually knee-length or longer, belted at the waist and worn as an under or outer garment.

Turtleneck - A high, close-fitting, turnover collar used especially for sweaters.

Tussah – A silk fabric that is usually plain but also in twill.  It is made from wild or uncultivated silkworms. It is coarse, strong, and uneven and has a dull luster and is rather stiff. It has a rough texture with many slubs, knots, and bumps. It is ecru or tan in color and it is difficult to bleach. It usually doesn't take an even dye color. It wears well and becomes more rough looking with wear. It wrinkles a little, but not as much as some.

Tweed – Generally made of wool, but can also be fabricated from cotton, rayon, silk, linen, and synthetics.  Tweed is the Scotch name for twill and originated along the banks of the Tweed river, which separates England from Scotland.  It is sometimes known as "tweel" and is similar to homespun cheviot and shetland. They are the same in texture, yarn, weight, feel, and use.  Tweed was originally only made from different colored stock-dyed fibers, producing various color effects. The tweed fabric family consists of a wide range of rough surfaced, sturdy fabrics. There are also some closely woven, smoother, softer yarn fabrics, and many monotone tweeds.  Tweed may also be plaid, checked, striped, or have other patterns.  It does not hold a crease very well. Typically used in a wide range of suits, coats, and sportswear for men, women and children.

Tweed (Harris) - All are hand woven on the islands off the northern coast of Scotland (Outer Hebrides). Harris Tweed was originally woven from hand-spun yarn.  When damp, it smells mossy and smoky. 

Twill - A fabric that shows a distinct diagonal wale on the face such as denim, gabardine, or tricotine.

Twill Weave - A basic weave in which the fabrics are constructed by interlacing warp and filling yarns in a progressive alternation which creates a diagonal effect on the face, or right side, of the fabric. In some twill weave fabrics, the diagonal effect may also be seen clearly on the back side of the fabric.

Twist - A term that applies to the number of turns and the direction that two yarns are turned during the manufacturing process. The yarn twist brings the fibers close together and makes them compact. It helps the fibers adhere to one another, increasing yarn strength. The direction and amount of yarn twist helps determine appearance, performance, durability of both yarns and the subsequent fabric or textile product. Single yarns may be twisted to the right (S twist) or to the left (Z twist). Generally, woolen and worsted yarns are S-twist, while cotton and flax yarns are typically Z-twist. Twist is generally expressed as turns per inch (tpi), turns per meter (tpm), or turns per centimeter (tpc).

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Urena - This bast fibre comes from the Urena lobata plant.  Wild, it grows 3 to 7 feet high and when cultivated can grow as tall as 13 feet. The fiber strands are cream coloured and have a wonderful luster. This fiber is mainly grown in the Congo area although small amounts are also raised in Brazil, India and the Philippines. Urena has the same uses as jute.

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V-Neck / V-Back - An open yoke coming to a "V" shape midway down the bodice.

Variegated - Having streaks, marks or patches of different colors.  Distinquished or characterized by a variety of different colors.

Velour - A medium-weight, closely-woven cotton, wool, or spun rayon fabric with a thick, plush pile. It can be made using either a plain weave or a satin weave construction. It resembles velvet, but has a lower cut pile.  The pile is characterized by two different lengths which gives it a rough look. The two lengths of pile create light and shaded areas on the surface and give it a pebbled effect. This type of velour was invented and made in Lyons, France, in 1844. "Velours" is the French term for velvet. "Cotton velour" is simply cotton velvet.

Velvet - A medium-weight, cut-pile constructed fabric of silk, rayon, cotton or sythetics in which the cut pile stands up very straight. It is woven using two sets of warp yarns; the extra set creates the pile. Velvet, a luxurious fabric, is commonly made with a filament fiber for high luster and smooth hand.  Mostly made with a plain back but some with a twill.  Some are made with a silk pile and a rayon or cotton back. The name comes from the Latin "vellus", meaning a fleece or tufted hair and it comes in many types, qualities, and weights. Good velvet wears fairly well and is inexpensive. The cheaper cloths give little service and look well only a few times before beginning to deteriorate. Better velvet may be crush resistant, water resistant, and drapes well but it has to be handled with care, and pressed on a velvet board. Cut all one way. For the maximum amount of depth in the color, cut it with the pile running up.  It also wears better when cut this way. Velvet should be cut with very simple lines in the garment, so not to destroy the beauty of the fabric. It has the tendency to add weight to the figure.

Velvet (Cisele) - A velvet with a pattern formed by contrast in cut and uncut loops.

Velvet (Faconne) - Patterned velvet made by burnt-out print process. The design is of velvet with background plain.

Velvet (Lyons) - A stiff, thick pile velvet. Used for hats, coat collars, also for suits, coats and dresses, when thick velvets are fashionable.

Velvet (Nacre) - The back is of one color and the pile of another, so that it gives a changeable, pearly appearance.

Velvet (Chiffon Velvet or Transparent Velvet) - Lightweight, very soft, draping velvet made with a silk or rayon back and a rayon pile.

Velvet (Panne) - Has a longer or higher pile than velvet, but shorter than plush. It is pressed flat and has a high luster made possible by a tremendous roller-press treatment given the material in finishing. Now often made as knit fabric.

Velvet (Utrecht) - Originated in Utrecht, Holland where it was made of silk. It was pressed and crimped to produce a raised effect. Today both mohair and silk are used.

Velvet Satin - A satin weave is used as the base for this luxurious figured silk, made with a cut pile effect.

Velveteen - Cotton, sometimes rayon, with a very short filling pile. Woven with a extra filling yarn with either a plain or a twill back (twill back is the best).  Velveteen is often mercerized with a durable finish. It is strong and takes hard wear. Poor quality rubs off. Some velveteen can be laundered. It is a warm, cozy fabric that comes in all colors, gradually piece dyed or may be printed.  Vetveteen has to be cut all one way. Press carefully, preferably on a velvet board, or tumble dry after laundering (no pressing needed). Mostly used in children's wear, dresses, coats, draperies, lounge wear, and a few special Rabbits.

Venetian – A fabric of worsted, wool worsted and wool and cotton in a satin weave, some in small repeat twill weaves with a clear finish. Has a very good lustre finish which resembles satin. Some has a slight nap. Wears well - similar cloth has worsted warp and woolen filling.

Venice lace - This lace often has a high profile, and is made using a needlepoint technique rather than embroidery. A heavier weight lace, the patterns vary from geometric to floral. Each pattern is attached to the others by bars made of thread.

Vichy - The cotton weave of this fabric is formed of horizontal bands and vertical bands respectively in a light and strong variants of the same color.

Vicuna – The fleece is reddish brown, shading to white on the belly.  The fibers can be use to manufacture the softest coat cloth in the world … or at least that’s the story from the vicuna growers industry.

Viscose - The most common type of rayon. It is produced in much greater quantity than cuprammonium rayon, the other commercial type.

Viyella – A twill blend of 55% wool and 45% cotton that has the appearance of very fine flannel. It is soft, fine, and warm that holds a good pleat.  It is machine washable.

Voile - A crisp, lightweight, plain weave cotton-like fabric, made with high twist yarns in a high yarn count construction.  It is similar in appearance to organdy and organza.  When it is made from wool, it is called "Voile de laine".   Voile is sheer and very light-weight.  It is usually made with cylindrical combed yarns. To obtain a top quality fabric, very highly twisted yarns are used. Voile drapes and gathers very well. The clear surface is obtained by singeing away any fuzzy yarns.  It has a hard finish and a crisp, sometimes wiry, hand.

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Waffle Cloth - A honeycomb weave usually of cotton or wool, used mainly for towels and robes.

Warm Colors - Colors like red, orange, and yellow are called warm colors.  They are advancing in nature because, as seen by the eye, these colors move closer thereby reducing the size of an object.  Warm colors are cheerful.

Warp Knit - A type of knitted fabric construction in which the yarns are formed into stitches in a lengthwise manner. Warp knits are generally less elastic than weft knits. Common examples of warp knits are tricot knits and raschel knits.

Warp Thread - The set of fixed threads that are set lengthwise across the fabrics.

Waterproof - A term applied to fabrics whose pores have been closed, and therefore, will not allow water or air to pass through them.

Water Repellent - A term applied to fabrics that have been treated with a finish which causes them to shed water, but are still air-permeable.

Wedding-Band Collar - A collar featuring a yoke that is either open or of sheer net with an ornate band fitting snugly on the neck, creating a choker effect.

Weft - The crosswise threads of any woven fabric.

Weft Knit - A type of knitted fabric in which yarns are formed into stitches in widthwise manner. Common examples of weft knits are circular knits and flat knits.

Whipcord - Cotton, rayon, worsted or woolen twill that is similar to gabardine, but the yarn is bulkier and much more pronounced. It is very durable, rugged and stands hard usage and wear. In time, it shines a bit with wear. Some times back is napped for warmth. It is named because it stimulates the lash of a whip.

Wickability - The ability of a fiber or a fabric to disperse moisture and allow it to pass through to the surface of the fabric, so that evaporation can take place.

Wicking - Dispersing or spreading of moisture or liquid through a given area by capillary action in a material.

Wing Collar - A collar with projections which cover shoulder seams of bodices and doublets.

Woof - The threads that cross the warp of a woven fabric; the weft.

Wool – A protein fiber usually associated with fiber or fabric made from the fleece of sheep or lambs. However, the term "wool" can also apply to all animal hair fibers, including the hair of the Cashmere or Angora goat or the specialty hair fibers of the camel, alpaca, llama, or vicuna.  Wool is very resilient and resistant to wrinkling. It is renewed by moisture and well known for its warmth. It absorbs and releases moisture slowly, which allows excellent insulating capabilities and breathability. It can even hold 30% of its own weight without feeling damp.

Wool (Eco Wool) – Sheared from free range roaming sheep that have not been subjected to toxic flea dipping, and have not been treated with chemicals, dyes, or bleaches.  Eco wool comes in natural tones of white, grey and black.

Worsted Fabric - A tightly woven fabric made by using only long staple, combed wool or wool-blend yarns. The fabric has a hard, smooth surface. Gabardine is an example of a worsted fabric. A common end use is men's tailored suits.

Woven Fabric - Fabrics composed of two sets of yarns. One set of yarns, the warp, runs along the length of the fabric. The other set of yarns, the fill or weft, is perpendicular to the warp. Woven fabrics are held together by weaving the warp and the fill yarns over and under each other.

Wrinkle Recovery - Similar to resiliency. It is the ability of a fabric to bounce back after it has been twisted, wrinkled, or distorted in any way.

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Yarn - A continuous strand of textile fibers created when a cluster of individual fibers are twisted together. These long yarns are used to create fabrics, either by knitting or weaving.

Yarn Dyed - Yarns dyed in a bundle or package before weaving into fabrics like ginghams, stripes and plaids. Also known as "color-woven" fabric.

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Zephyr – The name comes from the ancient God of the Winds Zephrus. The quality of the textile is airy and can be made in wool, cotton and synthetics
 

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